I would call Guiness.
I have a dracaena[corn plant] it is about 8 or 9 feet tall..can i cut the top as it's to tall for my house
You can cut the top off and new shoots will come from the sides of the trunk.
Or, if it's the top you want, air layer it then plant the top. Corn plants air layer very easily and you'll end up with 2 plants and you can keep the one you like best and give the other away if you don't want both. Here's a link on how to air layer. http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/exten...
Reply:Yep - just cut it off anywhere above a nodule and it will resprout. Forget the airlayer advice - not needed. It will take probably 3 months to see new growth.
Reply:Wow!
I have always liked those plants....so hard to kill.
Isn't there any starts that you could use to start a new pot with?
Maybe you could donate the tall part of it somewhere.
Like maybe a school or somewhere that there is some room for it to grow.
I don't think I would cut the top off. You'd be cutting it off all the time.
I bet it looks really neat tho.
Keep up the green thumb!
~wink~
Saturday, November 14, 2009
Dying massangeana cane tree (dracaena)?
I found a Massangeana Cane tree outside that someone was getting rid of. It only has leaves at the very top of the plant, and half of them are all brown. I was hoping I could bring this plant back, but I don't know if it suffers from root rot, if I should cut off any dead leaves, etc. I have basically no experience with plants so anything at all would help. I already know caring instructions, I just want to know what I should do to see if the plant is worth saving, or if it is too far gone. Thank you in advance for your help.
Dying massangeana cane tree (dracaena)?
Try re potting it and be careful not to over water. If the stem is very tall you can cut it off at the height you want. It will look like just a stick, but after a month you should see some new growth sticking through the top sides of the stick. They look like little knobs poking through. I did this with one that I had that was too tall and just looked lanky. Now it has new leaves and is a good height. You don't have anything to lose in trying!
Reply:if the roots look bad you can cut the bottom of the plant off-and they will grow back
I used to work in a green house and we used to cut them into pieces and plant them
plant wants a tropical environment
Dying massangeana cane tree (dracaena)?
Try re potting it and be careful not to over water. If the stem is very tall you can cut it off at the height you want. It will look like just a stick, but after a month you should see some new growth sticking through the top sides of the stick. They look like little knobs poking through. I did this with one that I had that was too tall and just looked lanky. Now it has new leaves and is a good height. You don't have anything to lose in trying!
Reply:if the roots look bad you can cut the bottom of the plant off-and they will grow back
I used to work in a green house and we used to cut them into pieces and plant them
plant wants a tropical environment
I have a dracaena marginata tree (dragon tree) will it grow out side if i protect it well i live in zone 10?
"Scientific Name: Dracaena marginata Lam.
Synonym:
Family: Agavaceae Recommended Temperature Zone:
sunset: 21,23-24
USDA: 10-12
Frost Tolerance: Does okay in Phoenix in a warm location of the garden
Heat Tolerance: Light shade in Phoenix, ideally on the south side of a wall, under an overhang
Sun Exposure: Full sun or light shade
Origin: Madagascar
Growth Habits: Very slowly up to 20 feet (6 m)
Watering Needs: Regular water for optimum growth"
I have a dracaena marginata tree (dragon tree) will it grow out side if i protect it well i live in zone 10?
tho i am not sure where zone 10 is, if it is hot and tropical, like florida, it should do very well outdoors. i live in n.e.pa. and keep mine in the sunroom during the winter mos. They told me it likes moisture , non direct sunlight, and loose soil. i mist mine every other day because the leaves need moisture also.i only water it once a week well. it is doing great. good luck.
Reply:Sure will. I think they look best planted in shade though. They'll survive with a lot of southern sun, but the leaves tend to look short, narrow and stunted.
Synonym:
Family: Agavaceae Recommended Temperature Zone:
sunset: 21,23-24
USDA: 10-12
Frost Tolerance: Does okay in Phoenix in a warm location of the garden
Heat Tolerance: Light shade in Phoenix, ideally on the south side of a wall, under an overhang
Sun Exposure: Full sun or light shade
Origin: Madagascar
Growth Habits: Very slowly up to 20 feet (6 m)
Watering Needs: Regular water for optimum growth"
I have a dracaena marginata tree (dragon tree) will it grow out side if i protect it well i live in zone 10?
tho i am not sure where zone 10 is, if it is hot and tropical, like florida, it should do very well outdoors. i live in n.e.pa. and keep mine in the sunroom during the winter mos. They told me it likes moisture , non direct sunlight, and loose soil. i mist mine every other day because the leaves need moisture also.i only water it once a week well. it is doing great. good luck.
Reply:Sure will. I think they look best planted in shade though. They'll survive with a lot of southern sun, but the leaves tend to look short, narrow and stunted.
Feeding a Dragon Tree (dracaena draco)?
What commercial UK products, or natural feeds (ie coffee grinds) are safe for a Dragon Tree?? (dracaena draco)
I know these plants are very picky, and can be killed easily by using the wrong method.
Feeding a Dragon Tree (dracaena draco)?
I am the world's worst at keeping houseplants alive but my dragon trees are absolutely bombproof, the only thing I have ever given them is Baby Bio and and fishtank water and they are very happy.
Reply:High nitrogen to produce leaf growth or a balanced feed will do
kung fu
I know these plants are very picky, and can be killed easily by using the wrong method.
Feeding a Dragon Tree (dracaena draco)?
I am the world's worst at keeping houseplants alive but my dragon trees are absolutely bombproof, the only thing I have ever given them is Baby Bio and and fishtank water and they are very happy.
Reply:High nitrogen to produce leaf growth or a balanced feed will do
kung fu
Dracaena Marginata.?
I have a dracaena marginata, iv had it for two mouths now and i noticed that the tips of the leaves are going brown. Is this to do with feeding the plant or is it a lack of light. It is the tall variaty. I also want to know if i could take some cutting from it and grow them at home. It is in a 8inch pot, would it be needing to be transplanted into a bigger one due to its size, its 36inches tall. 3 feet.
Dracaena Marginata.?
it doesn't need a larger pot
make sure the soil is not waterlogged
when you water does the water run straight through? that is a common problem with marginatas. Most of their roots are in the bottom half so you want to run it pretty dry.
low humidity will also cause the tips to brown.
it needs good light, humidity, tight soil, never let it sit in water, if you fertilize only give it 1/4 strength. likes to be root bound.
Reply:Dracaenas like spray misting of the leaves and rarer watering. Good luck!
Reply:Your dracena is not getting enough humidity; winter and heated homes are rough on house plants. Take a large plant saucer, fill it with pea gravel, and then fill that with water ALMOST to the top of the gravel. Set the plant on the saucer full of water and gravel; the water will evaporate and keep the air in the vicinity of the plant more humid, as long as you are careful to keep the saucer full of water. Your brown leaf-tips should not recur on new leaves, although there is nothing you can do about existing leaf-tips. Since your plant is quite large, you may want to consider putting a cool-mist/evaporative humidifier in the vicinity of the plant.
The person above who gave you instructions for bromeliads is a bit confused; a dracena is NOT a bromeliad.
You *can* take a cutting; however, they are not easy to root. If the plant only has one crown, the base of the plant will almost surely die if you remove the existing crown; however, if it's getting too tall to be managable, this may be your best bet. Get a pot of good-quality, moistened, STERILIZED potting soil and a packet of rooting hormone. Cut the crown off with several inches of stem attached; cut at an angle, rather than straight across. Dip the cut end into the rooting hormone, and press the stem into the soil deep enough to support the crown, firming the soil around the stem. Keep the soil moist, but NOT wet - be sure any pot for a dracena has GOOD drainage - and keep the plant in moderate light; avoid any direct sunlight. The plant should root in fairly short order. The bottom part of the old plant MAY survive if there is another crown, or that stem may simply wither and die.
Good luck!
Reply:I have included a site that shows care tips for this plant. There are many causes for the tips to go brown. Could be from too much light, too much fertilizer, too much water. Need a little more info. I hope these help.
http://www.evergrowing.com/tips/dracaena...
http://www.plant-care.com/dracaena-margi...
Reply:The tips turning brown is completely natural (unless a very large part of the leaf is turning brown). The reason it turns brown has a lot to do with the orientation of the veins in the leafs. If you notice, all the veins travel the length of the leaf and end at the tip. During evapotranspiration, salts will accumulate at the end of the leaf causing some necrosis. This is completely normal and you shouldn't be alarmed.
Reply:If you have been fertilizing the plant over the winter, that is more then likely the reason why the leaf tips are turning brown. While it does not go into full dormancy like other plants do outside, the reduced hours of light during the winter trigger a rest period for the plant which is totally natural. If you live down south and have had the plant out doors if could have tolerated a bit for light fertilizing over the winter, but if kept indoors I would stop any fert around the beginning of October and pick up with light fertilization right about now, going to full strength by mid April.
Reply:Air layer it to get another plant. http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/exten...
Axillary buds will form after the terminal (top) bud has been removed.
Check the bottom of the pot, if you see roots coming out of the drain holes it's time to repot.
Brown tips = inconsistant watering
have fun
Reply:From:
http://www.flowershopnetwork.com/pages/n...
"The distressing truth about bromeliads is that the individual plant very slowly begins to die after flowering and nothing can be done to stop it. However, before it goes, it replaces itself with one or more pups, or offsets, that may be separated from the mother plant and grown independently until they themselves bloom. Because they derive most of their moisture from their centers, the bromeliad 'vase' must be kept full of water. You may even put a very small amount of dilute fertilizer into the center vase every so often. Bromeliads are usually potted in a coarse, barky mixture that drains fairly rapidly. Keep the potting medium moist, but not saturated. The light requirements of bromeliads vary; the 'Silver Vase' prefers a very bright location, but out of direct sun. The 'Flaming Sword' can tolerate more shade."
Dracaena Marginata.?
it doesn't need a larger pot
make sure the soil is not waterlogged
when you water does the water run straight through? that is a common problem with marginatas. Most of their roots are in the bottom half so you want to run it pretty dry.
low humidity will also cause the tips to brown.
it needs good light, humidity, tight soil, never let it sit in water, if you fertilize only give it 1/4 strength. likes to be root bound.
Reply:Dracaenas like spray misting of the leaves and rarer watering. Good luck!
Reply:Your dracena is not getting enough humidity; winter and heated homes are rough on house plants. Take a large plant saucer, fill it with pea gravel, and then fill that with water ALMOST to the top of the gravel. Set the plant on the saucer full of water and gravel; the water will evaporate and keep the air in the vicinity of the plant more humid, as long as you are careful to keep the saucer full of water. Your brown leaf-tips should not recur on new leaves, although there is nothing you can do about existing leaf-tips. Since your plant is quite large, you may want to consider putting a cool-mist/evaporative humidifier in the vicinity of the plant.
The person above who gave you instructions for bromeliads is a bit confused; a dracena is NOT a bromeliad.
You *can* take a cutting; however, they are not easy to root. If the plant only has one crown, the base of the plant will almost surely die if you remove the existing crown; however, if it's getting too tall to be managable, this may be your best bet. Get a pot of good-quality, moistened, STERILIZED potting soil and a packet of rooting hormone. Cut the crown off with several inches of stem attached; cut at an angle, rather than straight across. Dip the cut end into the rooting hormone, and press the stem into the soil deep enough to support the crown, firming the soil around the stem. Keep the soil moist, but NOT wet - be sure any pot for a dracena has GOOD drainage - and keep the plant in moderate light; avoid any direct sunlight. The plant should root in fairly short order. The bottom part of the old plant MAY survive if there is another crown, or that stem may simply wither and die.
Good luck!
Reply:I have included a site that shows care tips for this plant. There are many causes for the tips to go brown. Could be from too much light, too much fertilizer, too much water. Need a little more info. I hope these help.
http://www.evergrowing.com/tips/dracaena...
http://www.plant-care.com/dracaena-margi...
Reply:The tips turning brown is completely natural (unless a very large part of the leaf is turning brown). The reason it turns brown has a lot to do with the orientation of the veins in the leafs. If you notice, all the veins travel the length of the leaf and end at the tip. During evapotranspiration, salts will accumulate at the end of the leaf causing some necrosis. This is completely normal and you shouldn't be alarmed.
Reply:If you have been fertilizing the plant over the winter, that is more then likely the reason why the leaf tips are turning brown. While it does not go into full dormancy like other plants do outside, the reduced hours of light during the winter trigger a rest period for the plant which is totally natural. If you live down south and have had the plant out doors if could have tolerated a bit for light fertilizing over the winter, but if kept indoors I would stop any fert around the beginning of October and pick up with light fertilization right about now, going to full strength by mid April.
Reply:Air layer it to get another plant. http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/exten...
Axillary buds will form after the terminal (top) bud has been removed.
Check the bottom of the pot, if you see roots coming out of the drain holes it's time to repot.
Brown tips = inconsistant watering
have fun
Reply:From:
http://www.flowershopnetwork.com/pages/n...
"The distressing truth about bromeliads is that the individual plant very slowly begins to die after flowering and nothing can be done to stop it. However, before it goes, it replaces itself with one or more pups, or offsets, that may be separated from the mother plant and grown independently until they themselves bloom. Because they derive most of their moisture from their centers, the bromeliad 'vase' must be kept full of water. You may even put a very small amount of dilute fertilizer into the center vase every so often. Bromeliads are usually potted in a coarse, barky mixture that drains fairly rapidly. Keep the potting medium moist, but not saturated. The light requirements of bromeliads vary; the 'Silver Vase' prefers a very bright location, but out of direct sun. The 'Flaming Sword' can tolerate more shade."
Details of dracaena palm marginata?
The Dracaena is easy to care for and thrives under varied light conditions . some Dracaena absorb chemical toxins from the air!
Position: shade is suitable - close to an east or west-facing window.
Soil: loam or peat-based potting compost.
Water: keep compost moist at all times, occasional watering in winter so the compost doesn't dry out.
Humidity: mist Dracaena leaves regularly
General care: repot every other year in spring.
Dracaena and Cordyline can be distinguished by their roots. Dracaena has smooth surfaced roots of yellow or orange, while Cordyline has white and knobbly roots.
Details of dracaena palm marginata?
check with the garden centre
Reply:A dracaena is often incorrectly described as a palm because of their palm like habit.They can grow very tall but are extremely slow in doing so.Water freely in the summer but keep slightly dry in the winter. In dim places the leaves will not develop their best color. Scales insects are the biggest problem. Do not keep in a cold drafty location.
Reply:What's that???????
tags
Position: shade is suitable - close to an east or west-facing window.
Soil: loam or peat-based potting compost.
Water: keep compost moist at all times, occasional watering in winter so the compost doesn't dry out.
Humidity: mist Dracaena leaves regularly
General care: repot every other year in spring.
Dracaena and Cordyline can be distinguished by their roots. Dracaena has smooth surfaced roots of yellow or orange, while Cordyline has white and knobbly roots.
Details of dracaena palm marginata?
check with the garden centre
Reply:A dracaena is often incorrectly described as a palm because of their palm like habit.They can grow very tall but are extremely slow in doing so.Water freely in the summer but keep slightly dry in the winter. In dim places the leaves will not develop their best color. Scales insects are the biggest problem. Do not keep in a cold drafty location.
Reply:What's that???????
tags
Is my Dracaena technically a palm?
Dracaena is NOT a palm. It is simply speaking a lily and belongs to family Ruscaceae, while palms belong to family Arecaceae or Palmae.
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