Dracaena Marginata.?

I have a dracaena marginata, iv had it for two mouths now and i noticed that the tips of the leaves are going brown. Is this to do with feeding the plant or is it a lack of light. It is the tall variaty. I also want to know if i could take some cutting from it and grow them at home. It is in a 8inch pot, would it be needing to be transplanted into a bigger one due to its size, its 36inches tall. 3 feet.

Dracaena Marginata.?
it doesn't need a larger pot


make sure the soil is not waterlogged


when you water does the water run straight through? that is a common problem with marginatas. Most of their roots are in the bottom half so you want to run it pretty dry.


low humidity will also cause the tips to brown.





it needs good light, humidity, tight soil, never let it sit in water, if you fertilize only give it 1/4 strength. likes to be root bound.
Reply:Dracaenas like spray misting of the leaves and rarer watering. Good luck!
Reply:Your dracena is not getting enough humidity; winter and heated homes are rough on house plants. Take a large plant saucer, fill it with pea gravel, and then fill that with water ALMOST to the top of the gravel. Set the plant on the saucer full of water and gravel; the water will evaporate and keep the air in the vicinity of the plant more humid, as long as you are careful to keep the saucer full of water. Your brown leaf-tips should not recur on new leaves, although there is nothing you can do about existing leaf-tips. Since your plant is quite large, you may want to consider putting a cool-mist/evaporative humidifier in the vicinity of the plant.





The person above who gave you instructions for bromeliads is a bit confused; a dracena is NOT a bromeliad.





You *can* take a cutting; however, they are not easy to root. If the plant only has one crown, the base of the plant will almost surely die if you remove the existing crown; however, if it's getting too tall to be managable, this may be your best bet. Get a pot of good-quality, moistened, STERILIZED potting soil and a packet of rooting hormone. Cut the crown off with several inches of stem attached; cut at an angle, rather than straight across. Dip the cut end into the rooting hormone, and press the stem into the soil deep enough to support the crown, firming the soil around the stem. Keep the soil moist, but NOT wet - be sure any pot for a dracena has GOOD drainage - and keep the plant in moderate light; avoid any direct sunlight. The plant should root in fairly short order. The bottom part of the old plant MAY survive if there is another crown, or that stem may simply wither and die.





Good luck!
Reply:I have included a site that shows care tips for this plant. There are many causes for the tips to go brown. Could be from too much light, too much fertilizer, too much water. Need a little more info. I hope these help.





http://www.evergrowing.com/tips/dracaena...





http://www.plant-care.com/dracaena-margi...
Reply:The tips turning brown is completely natural (unless a very large part of the leaf is turning brown). The reason it turns brown has a lot to do with the orientation of the veins in the leafs. If you notice, all the veins travel the length of the leaf and end at the tip. During evapotranspiration, salts will accumulate at the end of the leaf causing some necrosis. This is completely normal and you shouldn't be alarmed.
Reply:If you have been fertilizing the plant over the winter, that is more then likely the reason why the leaf tips are turning brown. While it does not go into full dormancy like other plants do outside, the reduced hours of light during the winter trigger a rest period for the plant which is totally natural. If you live down south and have had the plant out doors if could have tolerated a bit for light fertilizing over the winter, but if kept indoors I would stop any fert around the beginning of October and pick up with light fertilization right about now, going to full strength by mid April.
Reply:Air layer it to get another plant. http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/exten...





Axillary buds will form after the terminal (top) bud has been removed.





Check the bottom of the pot, if you see roots coming out of the drain holes it's time to repot.





Brown tips = inconsistant watering





have fun
Reply:From:


http://www.flowershopnetwork.com/pages/n...





"The distressing truth about bromeliads is that the individual plant very slowly begins to die after flowering and nothing can be done to stop it. However, before it goes, it replaces itself with one or more pups, or offsets, that may be separated from the mother plant and grown independently until they themselves bloom. Because they derive most of their moisture from their centers, the bromeliad 'vase' must be kept full of water. You may even put a very small amount of dilute fertilizer into the center vase every so often. Bromeliads are usually potted in a coarse, barky mixture that drains fairly rapidly. Keep the potting medium moist, but not saturated. The light requirements of bromeliads vary; the 'Silver Vase' prefers a very bright location, but out of direct sun. The 'Flaming Sword' can tolerate more shade."